Hey thanks for the advice on my 1994 Nissan Quest. I do have high miles 258,000 so far and still running great. We found out the problem. It was the half shaft. Thanks again...

crslght249:

Did your mechanic try replacing the ECM (the computer)? He or she should try getting one from the junkyard which is a lot less expensive than a new one. Chrysler's are known for their electrical problems.

Hi Billy Bob.

When it comes to oil changes always check your owner's manual. The lube shops and dealers always say every three-thousand miles because they want to sell you an oil change. Check the manual and go with that.

Here's what the AP has on the VIBE recall. You can get details from a Pontiac dealer.

General Motors Corp. is recalling 122,593 Pontiac Vibe passenger cars in the United States to fix bolts in the power window system that can become loose and lead to the window shattering.

Details of the recall were released Thursday. It's similar to a recall of more than 500,000 2003-2004 model year Toyota Corolla and Matrix vehicles announced Wednesday.

The vehicles share a common platform and are built in a GM-Toyota joint venture in Fremont, Calif.

GM says it received 107 complaints of glass breaking and 11 reports of minor injuries. There have been no crashes reported.

The GM recall involves 2003-2004 model year Vibe vehicles with power windows. The automaker will notify owners of the recall by early May. Dealers will replace the bolts at no charge to owners.

Coldissickofman with the Charger:

Most racing chips allow more fuel into the engine, unless it is a programmable chip that you can adjust econo to performance. It will make the car faster, but it will cost you $$ at the pump.

Putting a Supercharger could increase your gas mileage (this will vary by model purchased. A supercharger forces more air into your engine and increase fuel economy. A turbo has 'lag' when trying to accelerate, harder to install (need engine oil line to/from turbo), and less fuel efficient than a supercharger.

Bottomline: I would choose a supercharger over a turbo. Make sure the supercharger kit comes with a dianostics tool to adjust your engine. The fuel setting will need to change (engine will run lean - not enough fuel). Too lean, and the engine could expire.

what is the word on the pontiac vibe recall. I missed the story. Family was telling me about it. I figured yu would know about it.

I had recently bought a new 2007 Dodge Charger with 14 miles that I put on it from test driving it. It's a V6 3.6L. 1) My gas milage is 31 Hwy and 28 City. My torque to hp ratio is 1:1 @ 275. Rear Wheel.

If I get a racing chip that moderates my gas flow will it (a.) be worth it at about $300? (b.) really save me that much gas? (c.) make my car faster?

Also I'd like to put a supercharger in it. What would happen to my gas milage if it were to be associated with the chip? What are the downfalls of a supercharger? Should I go Turbo Kit instead? Turbo that I found was $5000, Supercharger at $4500.

What would be the best way to increase my horsepower? I'm getting a better intake and exaust system and my boss suggests getting my resignators cut for sound. It's a sleeper and I want to keep it that way. My goal is 400-500hp under $10K.

It's also a 2 ton car. Are there any body kits or something that make it lighter? Do I want it lighter?

Any information would be greatly appreciated. My email is donovan.nally@paharr.ang.af.mil.

Thanks

Hi Dennis...

I have a 200 Jeep Grand Cherokee with almost 100,000 miles on it. It is all time 4 wheel quadra-drive. Recently when I had it in the shop for new front brakes I was told that the front "ball joints" were almost "blown out" and should be replaced.... which I did to the tune of many $$. My question is whether that is normal wear and tear for a vehicle like this - that old - with that many miles on it. I like my Jeep but am wondering if it is worth putting more money into it at this point (what is normal wear and tear in general for this vehicle?) or whether I could keep it for another 50,000 or so miles? Thank you if you can give me some feed-back about this.

I recently purchased a new car and the Dealer recommended an oil change every 3000 miles or every 3 months whichever came first. I will appreciate your opinion concerning this recommendation.

Pappy:

If the car is running OK otherwise, I would not worry about the check engine light coming on when using the 10 percent ethanol blend gasoline. This sometimes happens with older cars. You may have also noticed you get fewer miles per gallon when using the ethanol blend gasoline.

Why is it that when I use the Ethanol blended gasoline, it kicks my "check engine" light on? When I find a station that does not have the ethanol blend, I fill up and a short trip on I-81 it goes out. The parts stores want $75.00 dollars just for the sensor. What can I do?

Hi Penny with the 94 Quest:

You don't mtention your total mileage but since this a 1994 mini-van I'm going to assume the mileage is quite high. Since that is probably the case, I think your guess about a CV joint may be correct. When they start to go, the noise and "shuddering" can come and go before the Cv finally dies. If possible look under your mini-van at the front to check out the rubber boots that cover the two CV joints. They look like small accordians, one on each side of the transaxle. If one of those boots is torn or missing, that's the CV joint that's going because dirt gets in there and speeds up the failure process.

Hey Mike with the Equinox:

Is this vehicle the two-wheel drive version or all-wheel drive? The reason I ask is she may be a little heavy on the throttle on wet roads and that's making the drive wheels spin. When she gets on the brakes, the wheels regain traction...and then it takes off fine. Since you say this only happens on wet roads that would be my guess.

I don't know if this particular model has electronic traction control but if it does, when the spinning happens,a light might flicker on the dash showing that traction is lost. Also the traction control can also back off the engine power until the wheels regain traction. That may be the "bog down" feeling she's mentioning to you.

Why do things break down all at once? Especially when you think you're getting ahead. Last December it started with my appliances. First the dishwasher, then my washing machine and the internal workings of the toilets were replaced. In January I had someone replace the head gaskets on my car, then I needed tires for inspection, and the high beam switch fixed. I took it for a test drive after getting an inspection sticker. Now it seems to have a transmission problem, the RPM's have to be high for it change gears from 1st to 2nd. My second car needs new brakes. Interestingly enough all of these items are about 10 years old. Is there a formula that can determine mechanical breakdowns in the fabric of time? All I can do is laugh... that's all I can do... (just had to vent a little.) But the two questions above need answers. :0)

i have Plymouth Voyager Expresso SE, a few months ago I was parked, and the speedometer needle strated moving on its own..it went to 120 and then down to Zero. After which the all the gauges quit working, and it shut down. It was towed to a garage, which got it started, now however it did the same thing and it won't start..when you turn the key..nothing happens the idiot lights came on but it just won't start. The mechanic can't figure it out either..it's been there since 10/29/07, except for a 2 week period after he got it going again. Does anyone have any ideas?????

1994 Nissan Quest van owner and not very mechanically inclined but very sensitive to noises and vibrations.

A couple months ago, the caliper got hung up and mechanic replaced it. (Didn't replaced or cut down rotor.) My dad said this happened to him and they replaced caliper and cut down the rotor.

But car is still vibrating (sometimes lightly and sometimes harder) and only shuttering on occasion but enough for me to feel unsafe and I haven't been driving it - only around town. The steering wheel starts vibrating and on occasion you hear a clunking sound when turning. So I was thinking rotor and/or CV.

Can't figure out what to tell the mechanic to look for since not doing it all the time.

Thanks for any help anyone can give me. Might have my mechanic drive to see if he can diagnose problem. Hate to make an appointment and they can't figure out what it is.

Dennis. My wifes 2005 Equinox has a problem when the roads are really wet. sometimes when you put on the gas like pulllin onto a highway, it will bogg down, then not go at all until you re-apply the brakes and try again. Theres is no trouble light that comes on, and its been in the shop twice at 2 different places, and no diagnostics have been found to say there is a problem, any ideas?

If the sound is consistant (when braking, when not breaking, over bumps and on smooth roads), it sounds like it might be a brake dust shield that is rubbing on the rotor/drum.

Brake dust shield is a thin peice of metal behind the rotor/drum. The way to check this is to lift the tires from the side were you hear noise. Next, spin the tires and move them in and out to and listen carefully to hear any noise.

Thea:

How many miles are on your C-RV? Is it always the same wheel/tire that's making the ticking noise?

I RECENTLY GOT 4 NEW TIRES ON MY HONDA CRV. THEN I WENT ON TO GET MY EMMISSIONS & INSPECTION DONE. LATELY, I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS A TICKING NOISE FROM ONE OF MY TIRES. I TOOK THE VEH BACK AND THEY ADVISED EVERYTHING WAS OK, IT JUST APPEARED TO BE BRAKE DUST. THEY SPRAYED THE BRAKE PADS. AFTER 1 WEEK, I AM HEARING THE NOISE AGAIN. I NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM UNTIL I GOT MY NEW TIRES. WHAT DO YOU THINK IT COULD BE?

Why is it when crude oil prices climbed to $112/barrel (a $10-15 increase) during the past couple of weeks, deisel prices climbed almost $1 more at the pumps. When the crude oil prices dropped $10/barrel last week, prices did not even drop a dime! Deisel prices used to be lower than gas prices because it is cheaper to refine, what changed?

Cerving something is causeing that high voltage reading somethine that a sensor is picking up and causing it the Fault code would be of some help. The scanner they used to get the reading would be nice. Bob whats happening is the cumputer is sensing there is a intermittent problem and storing them needs scanned to see what the code is. Dennis if they do get the codes I can't help a little in getting them in the right deriction. Also.any driveability probels need engine size or 8th digit of the vin number

John and Dennis Gm has been having brake problems with certain lines of there products. It is a problem with the rotors and run out. There is TSB on these from GM. Alot of those rotors you are talking about can be purchased at local aftermarket car parts. Most of time regular aftermarket rotors properly installed will correct the problem. BUT remember if you do the rotors your self or you have it done at a garage make sure they torque to wheels with a torque wrench or touque sticks.

Hi Subaru Bob.

Have you taken the car to a garage for a computer diagnostic test? When they hook it up to the computer you may get a fault code that will help pinpoint the problem. A friend of mine recently had a rough running Isuzu Trooper that was a mystery. I suggested that he replace the fuel filter. That cured the problem. Replacing the fuel filter may be something for you to consider but I'd definitely have a mechanic hook it up to the computer and see if any codes are revealed.

Hey Dennis. Thanks for the response! Otherwise, truck is running great. I'll try replacing the gas cap and let you know what I find. Thanks again!

I own a 1999 Hyundai Sonata (6 cylinder, automatic). The car has approx. 140K miles on it. About 6 months ago the car begin to have problems stalling when the engine was cold and when I would stop fast at intersections. The car would also drop hard into gear when I put it in drive. About 4 months ago I took it to the dealership and they flushed/replaced transmission fluid and tightened a loose transmission hose. Everything was fine for a few months. Now, within the past two months, the car is doing the same things-stalling when I stop fast and when the engine is cold. Just yesterday I took my daughter to church and the car lurched into drive (again). Anyone have any ideas why this is still happening? Thanks for your input.

Hi Dennis, I own a 2000 Subaru Outback w/126,000 miles,when in drive & stopped,car vibrates,in neutral it is fine, runs fine also,plugs & wires have been replaced motor mounts have been replaced,check engine light comes on for awhile then goes off.any insight would be appreciated.Thanks! .,

Hey Cerving.

Have you tried replacing your gas cap? Since your Explorer is a 97, it's old enough that the gasket on the gas cap may be cracked or deformed and is not proviiding a good seal. The on-board diagnostic system can read such a poor seal and give a check engine light. I've heard of yhat being the problem but the code given off by the car was EGR valve. Is the SUV otherwise running OK?

Brake rotors can give a judder from brake pad deposits coating them unevenly. This is often misinterpreted as warped rotors. Best way to try to alleviate this juddering is to get up to over 60 mph and brake very hard to about 10 mph BUT NOT TO A STOP! Repeat this four or five times. Then drive home at normal speeds . This will really heat the rotor and burn off the uneven deposits. If brake residue on the rotor was indeed the problem, this will correct it and restor good braking action.

Hi Dennis! I have a 97 Ford Explorer. My check engine light is on, coding something with the EGR valve. Had the truck in the shop, replaced the EGR valve and both sensors, but the light is still on. Mechanic mentioned that it's getting too high of an electrical reading (not really sure what he meant, don't know much about cars). Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks!

Hi Dennis, I enjoy your consumer information. I saw on World News Tonight with Charles Gibson, that Ford is developing a Ford Escape with a plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle, PHEV for short. It will work entirely on battery power at low speeds, and when the battery begins to die, the regular engine will take over. It can be plugged in overnight. It apparently can reach up to 100 MPG. I didn't know if you saw it on ABC. Ford's Greg Frenette thinks it will be available in showrooms within the next 5 years. That would be great!!

John, I went through the same thing with my 2000 mustang. When I got it with 24K miles on it the rotors were already warped. I replaced them with OEM rotors and they ended up the same way. Then I replaced them with slotted rotors bought on ebay. I have not had any problems since then and that has been about 3 years. I just got drilled and slotted rotors for my F-250 delivered this week. We live on a road that has a 55 mph speed limit and it is on a hill. This means braking hard to slow down for the driveway heating up the rotors, then parking the vehicle allowing them to cool rapidly instead of driving around braking lightly a few times to cool them slowly. I think (in our case at least) that this is what causes the warping. Try the slotted rotors, they do work.

Hi John. From talking to high performance brake company engineers at race tracks over the years, many of them have told me that warped rotors are often misdiagnosed. Many times the problem is material from the brake pads building up unevenly on the rotor surface. Under higher speed braking that can cause the vibration you're describing. A higher performance brake pad than OEM Pontiac pads may help. OEM brake pads are usually designed to have the quietest operation and brake performance can suffer because of that. There are not too many aftermarket brake pad choices for your particular Pontiac but I've attached the link to one of them on this post. Thanks for your question.

Dennis Buterbaugh

http://www.buybrakes.com/axxis/apps-Pontiac.html

Hi Dennis! I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix GT (30,000 miles) and recently noticed that when coming to a stop I get some vibrations from the front end. Especially when applying brakes from a higher speed. I assume this means I have warped brake rotors. What causes this to happen? Is there a special rotor that I can purchase that is less succeptable (sp) to warpage? Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated! Have a great day! Thank you!